For many years I have lived and worked in the East in such amazing countries as Myanmar and Nepal. These relatively small states are adjacent to the huge India, in which I have been working for almost two years now. And I'm trying to make sense of everything I've seen here. In Myanmar and Nepal, everything was somehow clearer, more proportionate, or something. And India at first overwhelms with its vastness, its diversity, diversity, inconsistency, and extremes. According to the 2010 census, it has a population of ^{billion 210 million people1}. Very soon, India will catch up and overtake China in terms of population.

Those who come here for the first time immediately exclaim: "How many people are here!". People of different races, nationalities, religions, beliefs, and castes that often exist in parallel worlds. And yet, all this incredible mosaic adds up to a stunning phenomenon, the name of which is India, Bharat. It is well known that the United States calls it the melting pot of nations. In India, a different definition is used - a bowl of salad, all the ingredients of which retain their specialness, while at the same time creating a complete dish. Such a "salad bowl" is the size of an entire subcontinent ²*.

Someone admires India, is fascinated by its deep spirituality and scholarship, rich culture, refined art, ancient monuments, sophisticated yoga practices, exotic nature. Others are shocked by India's contrasts and contradictions. There are, perhaps, only those who are indifferent to this ancient and unique civilization. It is easy to fall in love with India, but it is also a convenient target for sharp criticism. An objective view of this gigantic country is more useful.

COUNTRY OF CONTRASTS

Over the past two decades, India has been surprised by the rapid pace of its economic development, the growth of information technology, and the creation of "silicon valleys", which turns it into a great power - nuclear and space.

In 2010, India became the fourth largest economy in the world in terms of purchasing power parity, after Germany. India's GDP, calculated by this indicator, exceeded $⁴ trln3. According to the IMF's forecast, in 2011, this power should climb even higher - up to about $4.45 trillion - and reach third place, surpassing Japan.⁴ Only the US and China are ahead. By the way, Russia ranks sixth in this rating. It is clear that no one in the world can ignore the rapidly developing, growing stronger day by day India.

Experts agree that in the foreseeable future, the country's GDP will continue to grow by an average of 8 percent or more per year, primarily due to the development of the manufacturing industry, information and other innovative technologies. ⁵ Even despite the current serious slowdown in the global economic recovery after the global crisis, the International Monetary Fund forecasts that the world economy will grow at the same level in 2011 and 2012. 7 1/2 - 7 3/4%⁶. At the same time, the main engine of Indian eco-

* In his latest book, Who Are We? Challenges to American National Identity " the famous American sociologist S. Huntington (1927-2008) lamented the fact that since the 60s of the XX century. The United States gradually ceases to be a national state-a " melting pot (crucible)", becoming a "salad" of many ingredients-a conglomerate of different races, peoples and subnational cultures (approx. ed.).

Domestic consumer demand remains low, which makes the country less vulnerable to the current instability of the global economy.

Among some of the Indian elite, there is a kind of dizziness from success.

Thus, the theory of ^a three-pole world7 has gained some popularity. According to this concept, Europe is the past of world civilization, the United States is its present, and India and China are the future. In other words, the trend is that soon the fate of the world will be decided by India, China and the United States. This conclusion is obtained by extrapolating to the foreseeable future the current pace of development of the economies of these countries and regions.

Other Indian political scientists urge their ambitious colleagues to think less about the great-power future of India and think about its current glaring problems: poverty and poverty of hundreds of millions of people, still not eradicated illiteracy, the gap between rich and poor.

They support their position with the following facts. Despite the fact that the country has a large middle class, in some parts of India, especially in the north of the country, many people live poorer than in Africa. A third of Indians are chronically malnourished, while another third are overweight. Only 7% of the country's residents can afford modern medical care.

About 70% of Indians do not have access to toilets, but relieve themselves wherever they have to. It is ironic in the local press that there are significantly more mobile phones in the country than toilets: there are 564 million mobile phones in the country, but only 366 million people can use the bathroom in their home. In the state of Karnataka, whose capital is the world-famous computer Bangalore, they are going to pass a law prohibiting those who do not have a latrine in their home from running for local councils-panchayats. However, human rights activists object, seeing this as a violation of human rights.

In Bangalore, there are tens, if not hundreds of thousands of slum dwellers without any amenities. In Mumbai, India's largest city, up to 60% of its residents live in slums. There is only one millionaire among them, from a famous movie.

For a fresh person, and besides having romantic ideas about exotic India, the Indian reality can make a shocking impression. Swirling crowds in the streets. Brownian motion on roads. Unsightly neighborhoods of the poor, slums. Cows grazing in garbage dumps.

But this pandemonium is redeemed by the goodwill of the Indians, the cult of Indian hospitality. Guests here are showered with flowers, garlanded, covered with shawls, presented with souvenirs and fed sweets. I have accumulated so many beautiful colorful shawls in a year and a half that it's time to open a shop. But these fabrics are not for sale. They are valuable as reified symbols of Indian hospitality.

To say that the majority of Indians are highly politicized is an understatement. Parties and movements here, in the "largest democracy in the world" (this definition of the country traditionally appears in the speeches of US presidents), are available for all tastes: from radical Maoist to extremely religious-nationalist. In addition to national parties, there are also regional parties that govern entire states.

Indians participate in politics with all their usual passion, even fanaticism. So, some people go to Hindu temples on the eve of elections, where they take an oath in front of images of deities, for example, to cut off their tongue or chop off their finger, if only their favorite party wins

a victory. It happens that these promises are then strictly fulfilled. Such cases occurred in mid-May 2011 in the State of Tamilnadu, where local legislative assembly elections were held. The media reported on one exalted lady who cut off part of her tongue after winning her game. The party leader-turned-Chief Minister of the state received and rewarded her passionate fan. A supporter of the losing party was much less fortunate. According to a vow made in the temple, he burned himself alive, doused in gasoline.

In general, self-immolation in protest against something is not so uncommon in India. In the largest South Indian state of Andhra Pradesh, a campaign has been launched to separate the historical region of Telengana from it. Already 600 people, including students who were dissatisfied with the delay in the process of creating a new state, burned themselves or took their own lives in other ways. Dozens, if not hundreds, of other people are ready to follow their example. It should be borne in mind that Andhra Pradesh is inhabited by the same people-Telugu. It happens that they also set fire to their political opponents.

Indians are natural speakers. They are ready to speak at length and eloquently on almost any topic. There are often more speakers than listeners.

In addition to politics, Indians have another passion - local cinema. And it's not just about the famous Mumbai Bollywood. Many states have their own studios that produce films in regional languages. Popular Kollywood film studio in Tamilnadu with its stars. Recently, one of the favorite Tamil artists fell seriously ill. So some of his fans, as a sign of grief and sympathy, pierced their cheeks with a wire. Serious passions are boiling in life and on movie screens.

THE PROBLEM OF VIOLENCE IN THE HOMELAND OF NONVIOLENCE

India gave the world an apostle of nonviolence and tolerance, Mahatma Gandhi. There are many spiritual leaders who base their teachings on universal values and the ideas of brotherhood of all people, regardless of religion, nationality or other differences. Let us recall at least the recently deceased guru Sri Sathya Sai Baba, who is very popular not only in India, but also in many countries of the world, including Russia. On the walls of houses, on fences in Indian cities, it is not uncommon to see side by side images of the elephant-headed Hindu god of good luck Ganesh, Christ and the holy Kaaba for Muslims. There are also portraits of Mother Teresa and spiritual teachers-gurus of Hinduism, Arabic script suras of the Holy Koran.

On the other hand, there is a high degree of intolerance and violence in Indian society. The media is full of reports of murders and clashes on political, religious, and domestic grounds. So-called "honor killings"are practiced. This is when relatives kill married or married people against the will of their parents, especially when it comes to marriages between representatives of different castes*.

For years, Hindu fanatics have hounded India's most famous contemporary artist, M. F. Hussain, for allegedly insulting the religious feelings of Hindus with images of naked gods and goddesses. 99 lawsuits were filed against the artist. As a result, the master was forced to emigrate to Qatar. He died in the UK at the age of 96. To the credit of the Indians, many cultural and artistic figures of India said that they were ashamed of their country and its government, which could not protect itself from the attacks of the mra.-

* For more information, see: Yurlova E. S. Caste violence against women / / Asia and Africa today. 2011, No. 6 (editor's note).

kobesov of his outstanding citizen.

Still, it is not surprising that there is violence and intolerance in India, but rather that there are not so many of them, given the size of the country and its infinite diversity.

The situation with the status of women in Indian society is paradoxical. Many of them are discriminated against in everyday life. Such a phenomenon as getting rid of the fetus is common if it turns out that a girl will be born, although the law prohibits determining the sex of the fetus. There are, alas, murders of newborn girls.

On the other hand, the Parliament is going to pass a law that gives women a third of the seats in the legislature. The President of the State is Mrs. Pratibha Patil. The chief ministers of the three states and the capital Union Territory were women. The leader of the opposition in Parliament is a lady. The head of the ruling United Progressive Alliance and Chairman of the Indian National Congress is the well-known Sonia Gandhi. Italian by nationality. And this is in a country where foreigners were traditionally considered barbarians-Mlechcha, and you can only become a Hindu by birth. But S. Gandhi is Indira Gandhi's daughter-in-law and Rajiv Gandhi's widow, and a member of the most powerful Nehru-Gandhi political clan. And that says it all. India is a great democracy, but it is often ruled by political dynasties. Sonya and Rajiv Gandhi's son Rahul Gandhi is tipped to be the next Prime Minister of India.

NOT EVERYTHING DEPENDS ON KARMA

It is completely untrue that there is a fairly widespread idea in the world that Indians are submissive to fate and blindly rely on karma. In our press, we even had to read stories about how the Indians allegedly almost beat up a foreigner for saving a drowning man. Prevented, you see, the operation of the law of karma. There was also information that, it seems, those rescued from the rubble that arose after the earthquake, were again shoved into the ruins, demonstrating submission to fate.

It's all nonsense. Indians value their lives very much and actively defend their rights. Dalit untouchables and other humiliated people defend their interests by all means available to them. Here, a group of untouchables staged a noisy and foul-smelling protest in front of the municipality to protest the authorities ' attempts to demolish their slums. Smelly in the truest sense of the word. The protesters, who make a living by taking out sewage, doused themselves with this very sewage from head to toe, thereby demonstrating their plight to those in power.

Lagging behind in socio-economic development, the tribes became the base for an armed Maoist insurgency that swept across a number of states in India. Dozens or even hundreds of policemen are killed in clashes with the Maoists.

Students are particularly persistent in the fight for their rights. Often they block roads, demanding, for example, to improve living conditions in dormitories. Trade unions are always on the lookout. Where is the blind faith in karma?

And, of course, it is also not true that Indians do not grieve when loved ones die, but even rejoice at it: a person has freed himself from the mortal shell and can count on a better rebirth. No, when saying goodbye to the deceased, relatives cry and sob, just like everywhere else. Another thing is that funeral processions can be accompanied by strange rituals for us. For example, through the streets of Chennai, the departed are taken on special chariots to the beat of drums and ritual dances*. But these are ritual dances. They do not represent joy at all.

And how violently Indians react to cases of unnatural death and injury! If a car hits a pedestrian, then witnesses of the accident immediately block the road.-

* This tradition has also developed in the birthplace of jazz-in New Orleans, however, the dances are not of a ritual nature. And even in our country, famous artists are seen off on their last journey to applause (editor's note).

gu, throw stones at the car of the culprit fleeing.

Major Indian cities are choking on traffic jams. It happens that multi-kilometer traffic jams are created for reasons that are typically Indian. Here the traffic is blocked by a Hindu procession in honor of the warlike god Murugan. Half-naked people drag a chariot with a statue of the deity with ropes, feeling its weight literally on their skins. The fact is that the twine is tied to metal hooks that pierce the skin on people's backs. To the deafening beat of drums, the procession moves past the state-of-the-art headquarters of computer companies.

The Indian spirit has its roots in the Silicon Valley capital of Bangalore, the financial hub of Mumbai, and the former French colony of Pondicherry. No amount of globalization can do anything about this yet.

By the way, the myth is the idea that all Indians speak English well. According to the latest data, less than 10% of Indian residents can boast knowledge of the language of the former metropolis. What is there to talk about if more than a quarter of Indians are illiterate at all? Although, of course, the Indian 10% is almost the entire population of Russia. At the same time, India is experiencing a real educational boom. Universities, institutes, and colleges are growing all over the country like mushrooms after a rainstorm: public, public, and private. Moreover, these are universities with a good base and programs to help low-income students. A decent education is a direct path to a job with a decent salary, and therefore a better life.

In overpopulated India, the problem of survival is acute. Life's goods, which, moreover, are distributed very unevenly, are not enough for everyone. This makes people pragmatic, even tough. Indians are great masters of adaptation. Where no one survives, the Indian survives by being content with the least and striving for more. Unfortunately, not everyone manages to stay afloat. There are many homeless people, beggars, street children, and beggars in India. The issue of banning child labor has not been resolved. Heartbreaking stories like the following are not uncommon.

In 2010, a fairly large train accident occurred in the state of West Bengal with human casualties. Photos of the dead and injured appeared in the press, and among them-a photo of a wounded boy with a bandaged head and frightened eyes. But the drama didn't end there. A day later, information was published that this unfortunate child was sold by his own father to a blind beggar. Now the beggar was killed in a train crash, and the baby was in the hospital. The father, having learned that his son was entitled to compensation, immediately claimed him. On the other hand, there are many charitable organizations in India, both religious and secular, whose activists selflessly help those in need, sparing no effort and money.

Caste-based discrimination is still a social evil in India that has not been fully eradicated. Until now, untouchables are not allowed to enter individual Hindu temples. It would be naive to hope for the dismantling of the caste system as such, because it is the fabric, the basis of the social organization of Indian society. Strange as it may sound, but it is precisely the existence of a caste system, in other words, the structuring of society, that has allowed a democratic political system to take root in India, albeit with great shortcomings.

Numerous castes and podcasts bring people together, help them understand and defend their interests. It is not without reason that when describing political systems in the West, they say that, for example, the judicial community there is a separate "caste", independent of other branches of government. So in India, judges are a separate "caste", as well as civil servants, military personnel, and journalists.

DEMOCRACY AS A GUARANTEE OF STABILITY

In India, they are closely following the rapid changes in the countries of North Africa and the Middle East, trying on what is happening there for themselves.

And the majority comes to the conclusion that India is not in danger of such upheavals, because there is a democratic multiparty political system with real political competition. The Government changes following the results of general parliamentary elections.

But other Indian analysts believe that the existing order requires serious adjustment. First of all, we are talking about countering the spread of corruption, about intolerance to this evil. Civil society is ringing all the bells. Leaders of the public movement against corruption have come forward. They are followed by masses of people.

Anna Hazare, a follower of Mahatma Gandhi's teachings, gained popularity. Even the famous yogi Baba Ramdev joined the fight against corruption. Both Anna Hazare and Ramdev resort to such a traditional method of protest as a hunger strike. And one guru, after a 68-day hunger strike against pollution of the sacred Ganges River, died of exhaustion. The government is forced to react and engage in a difficult dialogue with the protesters. The result may be the adoption of effective anti-corruption laws.

India is often compared to China, trying to determine which country is developing more successfully and who has the best prospects for the future. Indians who have visited China say with one voice that China is now significantly ahead of its great southern neighbor in terms of economic and technological breakthrough.

As for the future, here local experts prefer India as a democratic country, as opposed to cars-

China with a one-party system, believing that economic and social changes will also require drastic political changes. The question is whether this process in China will proceed without serious upheaval. However, it will not be so easy to maintain stability in India, which is so diverse and full of contradictions.

There are certain parallels between India and Russia. The main difference, in my opinion, is that India is on the rise, people's lives are gradually improving, and Russia has to recover from the tragic breakdown caused by the collapse of the USSR.

Even now, some liberal economists are calling on the Russian government to reduce its social obligations, citing the example of India, where rapid growth is supposedly achieved largely due to the fact that people survive without state support. But this is far from the case. The Indian State runs many programs to help the vulnerable. Among the poorest, basic consumer goods are distributed at reduced prices, or even free of charge. By the way, no one has canceled the Preamble of the country's Constitution, according to which India is a "sovereign, socialist, secular, democratic republic."

Yes, and planning here, even in a market economy, just like in China, is not abandoned. The Indian Planning Commission is currently working on the country's 12th five-year development Plan for 2012-2017.

There is no sense of social apathy in India. No one can accuse the Indians of being tired of politics either.

In addition, Indians are born entrepreneurs. It is not without reason that Prime Minister M. Singh, summing up the results of the economic reforms launched 20 years ago, emphasized that they "released the life-giving spirit of Indian entrepreneurship and gave space to Indian creativity" ⁸.

And one more difference. India is a more self-sufficient country, given the size of its population and the antiquity of Indian civilization. This is reflected in the capacity of the domestic market and even in the popularity of local cinema.

On the other hand, no matter what they say, Russian society is modern, still quite educated, and urban. India is still largely a traditional society with a predominance of illiterate rural population.

What brings us together is that both countries are characterized by extremes, huge differences between wealth and poverty, high culture, spirituality and ignorance.

As you can see, in the Indian "salad bowl" the dish is very sharp, spicy. If you try, you'll catch your breath and bring tears to your eyes. But there are also a lot of sweet ingredients in it.

Yes, India is full of contradictions, contrasts and problems. Violence is not uncommon here. But, on the other hand, it is a very dynamic country with a great future.

Indians are very optimistic and life-loving. Despite all the Indian "horrors", many in the world, including in Russia, love India and Indians, come here again and again to feed on their inexhaustible energy, which often spills over the edge.

¹ Provisional Population Tables. Census of India 2011. New Delhi, S. Narayan and Sons. 2011, p. 160.

^{Huntington Samuel} 2. Who are we? Challenges to American National Identity, Moscow, AST Publishing House, Transitkniga, 2004, pp. 204-206, 222-226.

³ http://www.imf.org/external/pubs/ft/weo/2011/01/weodata/weorept.aspx

⁴ International Monetary Fund. 5. Report for Selected Countries and Subjects. Gross domestic product based on purchasing-power-parity (PPP) valuation of country GDP - http://www.imf.org/external/pubs/ft/weo/2011/01/weodata/weorept.aspx

⁵ Journal of the Southern India Chamber of Commerce and Industry, Chennai. 2011, May-June.

⁶ International Monetary Fund. World Economic Outlook. Slowing Growth, Rising Risks. Sept. 2011, p. 86 - http://www.imf.org/external/pubs/ft/weo/2011/02/pdf/text.pdf

^{Arwind Virmani} 7. From Unipolar to Tripolar World: Multipolar Transition Paradox. Academic Foundation, New Delhi, 2010.

⁸ Journal of the Southern India Chamber of Commerce and Industry, Chennai...

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